I love surfing. I am sure most people do. I spend countless hours trying to arrange my life and my lifestyle to incorporate the ocean, proximity to the beach, and surfing as a way of life. But lately, sometimes, I feel like these efforts are futile. Despite my career path being attuned to keep surfers surfing longer in life (by providing physical therapy and online wellness services to aging surfers), there are some days when I just can’t deal with the pressure of ‘keeping up’. This glorious, pristine, sunny, 85 degree weekend was just one of those occasions. Crowds were running thick. The heat. The traffic. The lack of parking. The guy lurching out of his souped up truck whistling at me with a massive american flag streaming behind it. Nope. Nope. Nope.
I even walked down the stairs at Swami’s and stared at the 50+ person crowded line up for nearly 40 minutes trying to convince myself that it looked fun. I couldn’t do it.
What happened? Am I at a cross roads? Is this where people look left, and then right, and then decide to cash in their overpriced beach life for something inland. Is this the promise that people make to themselves they’ll keep surfing, but instead rack their surfboards to gather dust and random objects in their garage?
It’s sad really… The days of affordable surf-life living are less and less when you consider that the ‘average’ surfer these days has to earn a 6 figure income to own a home here in southern California. I love hearing stories from my clients when they tell me they purchased their now multi-million dollar homes for the low 100’000 thousands just 20 years ago. Times have changed, and will continue to change, and that is a given.. But.. What does this mean in the big picture of things?
Will wave pools become the next way to help offload crowds? Who knows.. Maybe.. What I see, is that even more you have to stay motivated to get in the water. Even on the days like this one, where maybe you just body surf , or jump on a stand-up instead so you can at least have the benefit of being in the water. We all have had those days where the crowds can be discouraging, but it’s important to remember not to give up. One thing that can help is coming up with a routine that you can do on the days that you just can’t get yourself to surf. Having a go-to stretch program or exercise routine sometimes is the encouragement that you may need to paddle out, or at least keep you moving and mobile on the days that you can’t.
Surf-Body Connection currently has 3 corrective exercise modules that you can purchase to help walk you through a long term stretching and strengthening program. Click the quiz link below to determine what course may help you best!